One-Piece Crocheted Booties for Preemies
Contributed by Becky Bortz

 
Materials:
 
Sport weight yarn
Size G crochet hook (makes 2 1/2" sole)
 
Directions:
 
Chain 8, leaving about 2" of yarn.
 
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook, and each of next 3 chains.  1 hdc in next ch, 2 hdc in next ch, 3 hdc in end ch st.  Now work back along other side of chain, working over yarn end:  2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, sc in each of next 3 ch, 2 sc in last ch.  Do not turn.
 
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 3 hdc in next st (this is the middle of toe, left to right).  Continue around:  3 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 7 sts, sc in same st as last hdc, sl st in next.  This completes the sole.
 

Option for next row:  work in back loops only, to create a line defining the sole; or, work through both loops.  Rnd 3:  sc in each st around – 26 sts.

 
Rnd 4: (Work through both loops of sts for the rest of the bootie.)  Sc in each of next 10 sts, skip next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, skip next st, slip stitch in next st.  You will now be making the top of the bootie, over the toes and up toward the ankle:  turn, skip slip st, sc in each of next 3 sts.  Skip 1 st, slip st in next, turn.  *Skip slip st, sc in each of next 3 sts, skip 1 st on side of bootie, slip st in next, turn.*  Repeat between * twice more, but do not turn after last repeat.  Continue around side of bootie, toward heel and around ankle:  Sc in each of next 6 sts.
 
Rnd 5: Sc around – there are 16 sts around ankle.
 

Cuff:  This cuff st has a puffy look, somewhat like the popcorn stitch, but you could use other stitches.  If you want to make the cuff a contrasting color, change thread by drawing through loops of last sc, and cut yarn about 2” long.

 

In next sc, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull up another loop – 4 loops on hook.  Draw yarn through all 4 loops, ch 1 – puff st made; skip next st on bootie, work another puff st in next st, ch 1.  Remembering to chain 1 between each puff st, continue around making puff sts in every other st.  At the end of the first round of cuff, you should have 8 puff sts;  continue around, working puff stitches in every other st on previous row, until 3 rows are completed.  Notice that the puffs arrange themselves in a spiral rather than directly over each other.  There should be only 3 puffs in each slanted column.  End by skipping next st, sl st in next.  Cut end about 2” long.  Hide all ends in work with yarn needle or crochet hook

 
Make 2nd bootie the same way – there is no right or left.
 
Tie:  The bow is made with 2 pieces of yarn in each bootie, but you could also use just 1 piece of 4 ply yarn.  Cut 2 pieces of yarn 30” long.  Knot the 2 pieces together on each end, then cut in the middle.  Starting at center front, weave tie in & out sts of last sc row (just below first cuff row), by pulling through unknotted ends.  Note that at center back, you’ll have to angle up toward cuff, in order to remain on last sc row (because the work is done in a spiral.)  Tie knot in remaining end to prevent fraying, then tie in a bow.
 
Bonus:  The puff st can be used in an afghan:  Ch any odd number of sts – the puff st doesn’t “take up” the chain at all, so make your chain the finished width you want your afghan.  Work first puff st in 3rd chain from hook, then puffs in every other ch, with a ch 1 between each puff.  At end of row, do just the usual ch 1 after the last puff st, turn, and work puff sts back along the row, beginning in 2nd st from hook.  Because the work is turned, the puff sts lean first to the left, then right, changing with every row.  This st can get quite heavy in a blanket, so a large hook is suggested for 4 ply yarn, such as “J” or “K”.
 

Copyright: Becky Bortz 2003 (candkcottage@yahoo.com)


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